Dean's Store

Kingsbury, TX

The open road is a hell of a thing. Across the Atlantic, there's an event called The Mongol Rally that's been going on since 2004. The premise is this: teams bring a car of questionable quality (maximum displacement is 1.2L) and race from Czechia to Mongolia. They plan their own route—which can span 10,000 miles—and receive no support whatsoever from organizers. The car is almost guaranteed to break down. See you at the finish line. Good luck.

Sounds exciting, right? I thought so too, before chatting with a member of one Mongol Rally team. Turns out it's a weeks-long exercise in mind-numbing boredom, frayed nerves, and bad smells—interrupted by the occasional breathtaking view. The primary issue? Not enough getting out of the car.

So, take it from the pros: on your next road trip, make sure to get out of the car. And if you’re heading for San Antonio, perhaps swing by the town of Kingsbury and pop into the historic Dean's Store.

This fine establishment has been open since the 1930s. The owner told me that he's been running the place for 50 years. Now that's a hall-of-fame streak.

Dean's Store is so country it makes Crackel Barrel look like the Guggenheim. Spend 5 minutes here and you'll start speaking with a twang and reciting bulk feed prices. You'll drive out of here on a John Deere.

The beer is cold, the food is cheap, and the screen door keeps (most of) the bugs out. Old cowboy movies provide entertainment, though you can also read various scribbled messages on the walls or play video slots to keep busy. A coffee machine is also available, which I’m always a big fan of. However, fair warning: you've probably seen better bathrooms in your day, at least on the men's side.

It's possible another car pulls into the gravel lot during your visit, but that probably won't happen. It's quiet out here, on this stretch of Farm to Market Road 20. Cell signals are weak but the Texas sun is strong. There's nothing on the other side of the front door that can't wait one more round. Or two.

A road always goes somewhere, even if it's nowhere. Might as well take it to Dean's Store, it's both.