Snow's BBQ

"It’s quite surreal to be out here right now. I just flew in last night from Belfast," muttered the tall, hefty man standing next to us in line. I had been up since 4:30 am, Lone Star beer still coursing through my veins like an Amazon tributary. My friends and I had arrived at 5:45 am, nearly a full hour before the sun rose over the horizon. We slumped into our fold-out chairs, saving our spots in a long line that snaked around the parking lot. But these are the lengths you have to go to if you want a prime cut of brisket at the world-famous @snowsbbq.

In a state where oil, Don't Tread On Me flags, Matthew McCounaghey, and BBQ are the biggest exports, you really need to have the IT factor to stand out from the crowd as a BBQ joint. But even with all that competition, Snow's BBQ enjoys a legendary reputation.

Snow's is open on Saturdays only. They start serving at 8 am and stay open until they run out of food, which tends to be sometime after noon. That's why BBQ die-hards show up so early here. The whole operation is quite absurd and wholly unique. I've never seen anything like it. Fortunately, a bar stocked with free beer opens in the morning, helping visitors get the party started early—or keep it going from last night.

Snow's has garnered heaps of praise over the years. Gordon Ramsay has been here. 'Texas Monthly' named it the best BBQ in the state in 2008 and 2017. Calvin Trillin of 'The New Yorker' named it "The Best Texas BBQ in the World." It was featured in a 'Chef's Table' episode on Netflix. The 87-year-old pitmaster, Norma Frances "Tootsie" Tomanetz, is a two-time James Beard Award semifinalist. And, yes, she's still trucking. Incredible stuff.

I'm not one for lines. When I'm hungry and immobile, my mind wanders and I immediately start to triangulate the closest spot where I can get food without a wait. I operate best in a state of perpetual motion. But sometimes, you gotta make an exception. A visit to Snow's BBQ is definitely one of those times.